Moldova has one of the largest areas under vine in the world relative to its size, so the choice is wide. Some wineries impress through the scale of their underground works, others through architecture or award-winning wines. These are the ones worth the journey.
Cricova and Mileștii Mici
The two underground wineries are all but compulsory on a first visit. Cricova has over 120 km of galleries and well-organised tours; Mileștii Mici holds the Guinness world record, with more than two million bottles. They are cities beneath the ground, which you cross by car or on a small train, at a constant 12-14 degrees. We have compared them at length in a separate article.
Castel Mimi
At Bulboaca, in the Anenii Noi district, Castel Mimi is the residence built in 1893 by Constantin Mimi, the last governor of Bessarabia. Today it is a complex with a winery, restaurant, boutique hotel and gardens — one of the most photographed wineries in the country and a weekend destination in its own right.
Purcari
In the south-east, close to the Dniester, Purcari is one of the oldest wineries in Moldova, with a tradition going back to 1827. Negru de Purcari, its emblematic wine, wins international medals year after year. The estate also has accommodation and a restaurant, set among the vineyards.
Château Vartely and Asconi
At Orhei, Château Vartely combines the winery with a restaurant and rooms, with a fine view over the hills. Close to Chișinău, Asconi is a popular stop for tastings and meals, with a well-kept rustic setting and a traditional cellar.
And the small family wineries
Beyond the big names, more and more small family wineries are receiving visitors, with signature wines and intimate tastings. They are a more personal alternative to the large complexes and are worth seeking out if you come back a second time.
How to plan your visits
Almost all wineries receive visitors by appointment only. If you want to see several over a weekend, an organised wine tour takes care of transport and tastings — important, since you should not drive after tasting. See also Moldova's wine regions and native grape varieties.
When to visit
In autumn, during the harvest season, the wineries are at their busiest and the vineyard landscape is at its peak — but this is also the most crowded moment, especially around National Wine Day. Spring and summer make for quieter visits. Whatever the season, book well ahead and, if you are tasting, leave the car behind: a tour with transport included is the safest choice. Many wineries stay open all year, so a winter visit, beside a fire with a glass of red, has a charm of its own.
