On the bank of the Dniester, in the north of the country, Soroca Fortress is one of the best-preserved medieval strongholds in the region. It is a good starting point for anyone who wants to understand Moldova's history, and an easy sight to combine with the monasteries of the north.
The fortress
Its present circular form, with five towers, dates from the reign of Petru Rareș, son of Ștefan cel Mare, who rebuilt an older wooden fortification in stone in the first half of the sixteenth century. The fortress controlled an important crossing of the Dniester and formed part of a chain of strongholds defending medieval Moldova, alongside Hotin, Tighina and Cetatea Albă. Restored, it can be visited inside, with access to the walls and views over the river.
The Candle of Gratitude
On a hill near the town stands the Candle of Gratitude, a tower-shaped monument raised in memory of those who defended the language and culture over the centuries. You climb it by steps, and from the top there is a wide panorama over the Dniester — worth the effort.
The town of Soroca
Beyond the fortress, Soroca is known for Gypsy Hill, a district of spectacular, brightly coloured mansions built by the town's Roma community. It is an unexpected contrast, worth a walk and a few photographs.
In the area
A few dozen kilometres away is Rudi Monastery, set on a promontory overlooking the Dniester — a fine stop if you have time. Northern Moldova is generally less visited, and quiet for exactly that reason.
Getting there
Soroca is some 160 km from Chișinău, about three hours by car. It can be done in one long day, but if you also want to take in the monasteries of the area, a night in the north is worth it.
More on Moldova's history and on places to visit.
Visiting tips
The fortress takes about an hour to see, and the climb to the Candle of Gratitude another thirty minutes and comfortable shoes. Check the opening hours in advance, as they can change out of season. Combine the visit with lunch in town and with nearby Rudi Monastery, for a full day in the north.
Why the journey is worth it
Soroca is a long way from Chișinău, but the distance is precisely what keeps it authentic. The fortress, the monument on the hill and the colourful district of the Roma community make a contrast you will not find anywhere else in Moldova. If you have time for a single outing to the north, this is one of the most striking.
And the drive north, through villages and gentle hills, is part of the experience, not just a means of reaching the destination.
