The food scene in Chișinău has grown a great deal in recent years, but the charm still lies in the traditional cooking. Here are the kinds of places you will find, what to order and what to expect.
The types of restaurant
- Traditional — plăcinte (filled pastries), zeamă (chicken soup), mămăligă (polenta), sarmale, with local wines. The best introduction to Moldovan cooking, often with rustic decor and live music.
- Wine bars — for tastings of premium wines, in smart locations in the centre, with menus built around wine pairing.
- Speciality cafés — European-standard espresso bars, good for breakfast and a decent coffee.
- At the wineries — many wineries nearby have their own restaurants, with gourmet menus and wine straight from the source.
What to order
If it is your first visit, ask for plăcinte, a zeamă soured with borș, and mămăligă with sheep's cheese and sour cream. For something more substantial, sarmale or a roast. Add a glass of local wine — the native varieties, such as Fetească Neagră, go perfectly with the food here.
What it costs
Prices are affordable: a traditional lunch costs 5-10 euros per person, dinner at a modern restaurant 15-30 euros, and a speciality coffee 2-4 euros. A tip of around 10 per cent is appreciated but not obligatory.
Practical tips
At weekends, especially at the popular places in the centre, a booking is welcome. Many restaurants have menus in English or Russian too, and younger staff generally speak English. Portions are large, so do not order too much at once.
And the market
Do not miss the Central Market: cheese from the producer, pickles and seasonal fruit, perfect for a snack. For the background, read about Moldovan cooking.
A few dishes to insist on
Beyond the classic plăcinte and mămăligă, look on the menu for tochitură, meat-free sarmale with vegetables, and sheep's cheese worked with fresh herbs. For dessert, try the pumpkin or apple plăcintă and, if you can find it, alivenca, a fluffy cheese cake. All of them go with a glass of house wine or a divin (Moldovan brandy) at the end.
Breakfast like a local
In the morning, the speciality cafés in the centre serve good coffee and pastries, but for something traditional ask for warm plăcinte from a bakery or the market. It is cheap, filling and exactly what local people eat on their way to the day's business.
And remember: in Moldova, a meal is not only about the food but about the time spent over it — sit down, order wine and let the evening run its course.
